Surfing and San Diego go hand-in-hand. San Diego County is responsible for some of surfing’s most historic moments and figures. With 70 miles of pristine Southern California coastline and some of the country’s best waves, it’s easy to see how San Diego has firmly cemented itself in the annals of surf history. From the inception of the modern fish to some of the most cutting-edge high-performance designs, San Diego surfing’s shapers have had a heavy in the development of modern surfing. With a varied coastline with virtually every wave type, from mellow longboard waves, slabbing reef passes, and cruisy points to one of California’s heaviest beach breaks, it’s no wonder San Diego surfing has given us some of the best shapes and shapers of all time. Dive in below as we reveal our favorite San Diego surfboard builders in Hometown Shapes: San Diego Surfing’s Most Impactful Surfboard Shapers.

San Diego Surfing’s Most Impactful Shaper: Steve Lis

Steve Lis' contribution to surfing can be found in almost any lineup in the world— the fish. The swallowtail twin fin design that we all know and love, and that’s been reimagined time and time again, is rooted in San Diego surfing legend Steve Lis’ original kneeboard design. As a knee boarder, Lis was looking to push the limits of where a board could be ridden in pitchy, hollow waves. While we associate the fish with smaller waves today, in 1967, it was arguably the most progressive shape around. As the original outline was adopted by stand-up surfers, the design gradually changed to reflect what we know today as a fish, with the wide point forward, a round outline, and a swallow tail. In the last ten years, Steve Lis’ fish has enjoyed a renaissance, with pro and armature surfers seeking out the design for its speed and unique flow.

San Diego’s Most Iconic Shaper: Skip Frye

Skip Frye was known for his effortless style as a surfer. Born in 1941 in San Diego, Frye didn’t begin surfing until he was in high school in 1958. Skip’s first surfboard was a 9’3” single fin shaped by Mike Diffenderfer that Skip and Bob Phillips glassed in Skip's garage. In 1963, after placing first in the Senior Men's Division in the Mission Bay Aquafair in Pacific Beach, Skip shaped his first surfboard. During the 60’s and 70s. Skip shaped for Gordon & Smith, where he developed his famed winged logo. As an original member of the Windandsea Surf Club, Skip claimed many accolades as a competitive surfer. On a Windandsea trip to Australia in 1967, Skip encountered shapes by Bob McTavish, which were shorter in length and featured a V bottom concave. Skip brought these concepts back to the West Coast and is credited with being the first California shaper to usher in the Shortboard Revolution. Skip created many timeless shapes featuring his signature bottom contours, including his take on Steve Lis’ fish.

Stu Kenson

Stu Kenson is another of San Diego surfing’s legendary surfboard builders and the founder of Evening Glass. Stu started his board building career doing ding repair when he was a teenager. He made his first board in the summer of 1971 and was immediately hooked. Kenson lived near the Clark Foam factory and worked in a surf shop where Terry Martin Shaped. Today, Stu is one of San Diego’s most sought-after shapers, known for his high-performance designs and big wave guns. After working for JS Industries, Stu incorporated his own label SK Surfboards, where he works with some of the world’s most talented surfers.

Rusty Preisendorfer

The Rusty Surfboards’ italicized “R” Logo is one of the most recognizable logos in modern surfing. Rusty Preisendorfer was born in 1953 and began shaping surfboards at age 16. Soon after beginning his board-building career, Rusty was invited to shape for major labels like Canyon and Gordon and Smith. The Rusty name became synonymous with high performance, and by the 1980s, his boards were preferred by many Championship Tour surfers. Australian legend Mark “Occy” Occhilupo became Rusty’s flagship rider. As a rivalry developed on tour between Occy, riding for Rusty, and Tom Curren, riding for Channel Islands, Rusty’s profile soared to new heights. Rusty continues to shape for some of the world’s best and is constantly innovating the design and function of the modern surfboard.

Jason Bennet

There’s a special place in surfing for shapers who rip, and Jason Bennet definitely belongs there. Bennet began his pro surfing career at the ripe age of 18 but found a passion for shaping thanks to Oceanside legends Wally Puha, Scott Raisbeck, David Barr, and Michael Baron. Bennet switched his focus to shaping and founded Chemistry Surfboards in 2002, initially focusing on custom, hand-shaped boards. Now, Jason runs Chemistry with his good friend Willie Smith. Chemistry takes a creative approach to progressive, high-performance shapes.

Sean Mattison

Sean Mattison is another pro-surfer turned shaper and the founder of Von Sol Surfboards. At Von Sol Surfboards, Sean focuses primarily on alternative designs, with an emphasis on keel twins, quads, and, most recently, fin design. Mattison is the inventor of the “nub” fin. A small center fin trailer made to accompany twins and quads that’s been a staple in Kelly Slater’s quiver.

Chris Borst

Chris Borst founded Borst Designs in 1989 and has since risen to the forefront of high-performance surfboard shaping. Borst began shaping in a backyard shack in Mission Beach and later got a job shaping at Rusty Surfboards, where Chris would refine his mastery of shaping performance boards. Borst Designs is one of the most prolific surfboard manufacturers, producing over 1200 custom surfboards each year. With team riders like Taylor Knox, it’s easy to see why Borst Surfboards is one of San Diego surfing’s most cherished local brands.

If you’re ready to experience everything San Diego surfing has to offer, book your stay at our boutique Oceanside hotel. Oceanside boasts the most consistent surf in all of San Diego County, and the Green Room is mere steps away from the beach.

Hometown Shapes: San Diego Surfing’s Most Impactful Surfboard Shapers